The last day of our lovely trip. We made the bus trip to Chioggia which is slightly over 1 hours bus ride from Santa Lucia station. When we arrived, we were shocked and pleasantly surprised that we were the only tourists in this picturesque town.
There being not much else to do, we went around the town looking for some decent lunch. We were not disappointed.
Ristorante Bella Venezia
Ravagnan Roberto (Proprietor)
Calle Corona 51
30015 Chioggia
Venizia.
The food, as in many places in Venice, was unbelievably good. We had the Tortelli Rumbo which looked a lot like the stuffed dumpling in our wanton noodles. In addition, we had the seafood platter and some espresso to top of the five star food at 3 star prices.
Readers, if you do visit Venice one day, DO visit Chioggia. You will find it a mini Venice without the hustle and bustle of the tourists and souvenir shops. It is still a fishing village and its proximity to Venice makes it worthwhile for a half day jaunt to get a flavour of everyday Italian life.
Me at the entrance stairway to the Doge's palace.
This is the final post of our unforgettable Italian holiday. The unfortunate incident aside, I am very pleased to say that this is a truly hospitable country, even with its relatively unsafe and security issues.
The country has a long and fascinating history, with periods of wars, Roman occupation, early Christian influence and the Renaissance period to embellish its good image throughout the 2 millenia.
Thanks for the ride. Time for some new adventures in possibly East European or South American shores.
3 days left and I am raring to go ! We had planned a trip to Chioggia today but Marco at the front desk advised against is citing unfavourable weather.
Our alternative plan then was to cover the 2 musuems as well as the St. Marco Basillica.
1. Museo de Cornee
Situated at the far end of Piazza St Marco
2. St. Marco Basillica
It is world famous because it houses the presumably the remains of Mark the Apostle in one of the pillars. It is a church secret as it was done so to hide it from the invading Ottoman soldiers.
We had a lovely lunch at a small cafe near the Hugo Boss and Gondola station.
In the afternoon more sightseeing and we went to the world famous Rialto Bridge across the Grand Canal, also called the Lover's Bridge. We had some wefies for rememberence and then walked to the nearby cafe for coffee and some tarts. I had a hilarious conversation with the Bangladeshi head waiter about where were 'orginally' came from. For censorship and diversity compliance reasons I will not post it here or on any social media platforms.
Finally the shot for the trip, which we will keep for our old age memories. This will be the second last post for our wonderful Italian holiday, and the very unfortunate event which occurred to me on Day 13 Dec 12th 2023 has already been posted previously.
We also were mesmerised (is that the correct word ?) by the sewage dump boat, which literally comes every day to take the sewage in containers from all the establishments and homes on a regular basis.
Venice, is a fully functioning city, with cinemas, post offices, supermarkets, gyms, administration offices, theaters, restaurants, museums, boutique shops and lots of other entertainment venues just like in any major city. This aspect of city maintenance and cleaning on a daily basis is often overlooked or not even given second thoughts.
Truly a city for all seasons and reasons to visit.
There is reference to the city of Venice being built on an Upside Down Forest. As shown below, the millions upon millions of Oak Pylons which have been petrified over decades will lead to their solidifcation and thus is perfect to be a solid non destructible base for the city or numerous islands.
The embankment and shoreline is made from Istrian stone. Andreas also brought us to see the leaning tower of Venice (haha) which has been supported by stone buttresses (reinforcement structures).
In 2023, due to global warming and climate change, Venice is particularly affected by the ice caps melting and the rising sea levels. They have engineered a solution whereby 68 air ballasts in the 3 open waterway points will be made.
Costing a cool EUR 60 billion, they will rise up when activated to stop the water inflow, much like our Marina Barrage, except that this 68n ballasts will be in the open sea.
It is a stark fact that Venice is indeed sinking, and there is no apparent permanent solution in sight.
Teatro la Fenice
Our last stop for the day is the Teatro La Fenice. It is one of the finest WOODEN theatres in Italy and has the dubious distinction of being burned down twice in the past ! Electrical malfunction was the culprit.
For dinner, we went to the fabulous "Trattoria Agli Artisti Pizzeria" which is as
Taken from my diary ; Wake up with a smile on my face. After toiletries, we head up to 3rd floor for simple American breakfast, the 8.30 am slot. Meet the tea lady there and another couple who are Europeans and also on holidays.
10.30 am Walk around St Mark's Piazza and went to the Doge's Palace.We bought the St Mark's Pass which entitles the holder to the Doge's Palace and a couple of museums around the Piazza.
We enter the palace after a short wait and we are amazed at the size of the meeting hall which apparently is the largest in Europe !
There are numerous frescos depicting all the Saints and all the wars fought by the Venetians in the yesteryear. To say we were awed by the room is an understatement,
We crossed over the Bridge of Sighs, which meant for the prisoners, the last time they would ever cross over and never going to come back across alive, hence the name. There were the prison cells which were surprisingly brightly lit.
Another picture of my wife across one of the bridges and with gondolas in the background.
Lunch was a rather bleary affair, I daresay the worst of the entire trip, at a streetside pizzeria. We went to out meeting point for our walking tour.
3pm
We went on a fascinating walking tour led by the interesting guide Andreas. He gave a fascinating insight into how clever the early Venetians were in the past. They were active tradesmen, craftsmen, sea farers (Marco Polo was a Venetian), engineers, artists and warriors.
The paintings at the Doge Palace depict wars with the Ottomans (Turks) in the late 15th Century. Suleiman (12th century) and the Gauls (French). All these magnificent wars were carried out over the last 1000 years and the Renaissance was right smack in it too !
We walked to the Grand Canal and were taught that Venice is actually one big lagoon with 3 'islands' protecting if from the Adriatic Sea. Lido island is the largest of the 3 islands comprising Venice.
We also walked to certain precints, and saw he disused wells where the early Venetians gathered rainwater and filtered the rainwater through sand. A brilliant engineering concept which also catered for excess water overflow. I guess there are pumps in the overflow tanks when the dry season came.
Finally, all of Venice is laid on millions upon millions of petrified oak pylons. Petrification takes place when there is no oxidation od the wood and the structure solidifies, like concrete. Brilliant engineering concept applied again !
The banks and the shores of Venice are made of Isthian Stone, whatever that is.
The raised wooden walkways are up, so bad is the almost annual flooding of the square
In the afternoon of the 9th after another amazing lunch, we went to Saint Mark's Square which was just around the corner from the hotel. We could see that the raised flooring was all in place in anticipation of the night's rain. Venice is in serious danger of going underwater in the next 50 years, and the Government has put into place many engineering solutions like massive bollards filled with air to stop the eventual flooding into the many small islands which make up the region Venice.
Venice Map
Just outside the area, there are plans by the Italian Government to put up massive bollards which will be raised to block the rising flow of water into the precint.
We booked the St Mark's pass which gave us entry into the Doge's Palace as well as the 2 museums around the Piazza. I must warn that the Piazza is full of undesirable touts and con-men so it is best to watch your phone, wallet, backpacks and passports. In the next few days I myself became a victim of a snatch thief in the train back from Venice.
The Doge's (or big chief) palace was really grand, the archway staircase with the golden roof was amazing. It goes to reinforce the view that the city state of Venice once long time ago (say 300 - 400 years) was a mighty force and Singapore's school books are all following the merits and management of the Venetians today.
The dome inside the Duomo St Marco
I can say this for Venice, it has a magnificent history of trade and was a city of light and charm. Singapore on the other hand, well we are a 58 going on 59 year miracle. Will we rise above the geopolitical maneuvering of the region and still be as strong and as wealthy over the next 58 or 59 years ?
With the winged lion, the Symbol of the Venetian empire
Venice is sinking, that and the fact that Italy is swamped with the influx of foreigners coming from Africa, Eastern Europe and Asia makes visiting places where plenty of tourists flock to, dangerous. I have been to Venice a total of 3 times in my life and each visit is I experience a paradigm shift in what I perceive it to be.
To rest on the former glories and depending only on tourism is not a good solution for economic uplift, but the state of many European countries is such that unless the young can study the right subjects like Cybersecurity and or Creative Digital Marketing for example, the rank and file jobs will ultimately be taken over by AI. This is the same state of play as in Singapore, by and large.
Of course, if you are good at cooking and other social skills, there are myriads of jobs in the local domestic economy. However, there is the influx of cheap foreign labour from mainly Bangladesh and Sri Lanka who fill up the void for the work that is inexpensive, hard and takes long hours. Taxes and GST are very high, so that in itself is also another point people have to take into consideration. There is no escaping from earning a decent day's work.
In the evening, my wife found us a great little restaurant called Ristorante la Piazza and we had a lovely lobster Taglatelle and Fried Sea Bass with vegetables to share.
Flooded Saint Mark's Square Dec 10th morning
Impressive golden archway and ceiling in the Doge's Palace
The magnificent archway and staircase entrance of the Doge's palace which leads to the main Meeting Hall with yet even more majestic frescos and statues. All reminiscent of a long forgotten and glorious past.
P d G to Venice 8th Dec 2023 Overcast 2- 6 C (whole day)
We finally reach the last quarter of this memorable trip. We have been really fortunate in that, barring from a few hiccups like no shows from travel agents and the bike shop closure on the day we were to go cycling, things had been pretty smooth sailing. Little did I know, that almost at the end of the trip would an tumultuous event happen to me in the train,that made me lose faith in the common good of SOME people. I had blogged about that incident in an earlier post, and if you have interest, please visit my post dated
The agent has landed in Piazza Saint Marco
After a hearty breakfast at the C House breakfast place, we took the 10.40am train to Venezia Santa Lucia station. There was some misunderstanding with an elderly lady but after some badgering, she eventually got up and left to another seat.
When we reached Santa Lucia station, thats where the fun starts. Now, as you know Venice has no driving roads. Canals and water transportation is the main mode of getting around. Of course you can walk, but lugging 20 kgs of big and mid sized bags across multiple bridges is no one's cup of tea.
We saw the same Bangla worker who carries or with his team or baggage handlers manhandles the luggage across the bridges at the water ferry station Ferrovia "A". We tried but unsuccessfully negotiated with him to provide the same service to our hotel. Apparently, it is not legal to do so nowadays.
He offered to provide us a private boat ride to the hotel for EUR 60 which we declined. We motioned to the Ferrovia "A". Water taxis or ferries are numerous throughout the day and night in Venice, so our stop was San Zacharia, near to Piazza Saint Marco.
Apparently my Indian looking face gets me some privilege amongst the workers legal and illegal (smiling as I write this). A Bangladesh vendor selling trinkets sold us 2 day passes worth EUR 10 each and sent us on our way. We were very fortunate for this stroke of luck, because many tourists upon arrival will be muddled as to what exactly to do and buy what and from where.
San Zaccharia is about 30 minutes taxi ride from Ferrovia "A" so I make a mental note as it is best to leave with plenty of time for the water taxi on the 12th Dec - the day of our departure from Venice to Milan.
We reached San Zaccharia around slightly past noon, and find our accomodation for the next 4 nights (yes, the longest we have ever stayed in 1 place since 2016).
Locanda al Leon is all what the reviews make of it. Extremely central in location, it is "perfecto" in all senses, central location, near all the famous sites and restaurants and well managed by the Leon family and their staff. Marco is extremely professional and helpful in this regard.To reach the hotel, you alight at San Zacharia and walk about 100 metres towards Piaza Saint Marco before turning into a small and narrow side lane and leading to the Campo Santi Fillipo e Giacomo. It is just at the corner of the Campo.
Locanda al Leon (4*)
Campo (Square) Santi Filippo e Giacomo
4270, 30122 Venezie
The effects of global warming results in low lying places like Venice to become flooded and eventually go underwater
This day was supposed to be the day we went cycling. Well, that did not work out as planned ! The place happened to be closed !
We woke up late, again. This is highly unusual for a high paced travel couple like us. But it did a world of good as far as our emotional and subconscious state of mind was concerned.
As of Day 7, I had written in my diary, that by the time on Day 7, at Peschiera del Garda, I was totally relaxed and recharged and ready to go.
So, today, even though there was this hiccup, we were in high spirits and walked about 5km back and forth along Lake Garda. The lapping of the waters, the blue sky with the hint of sun, the ducks quacking in the distance, the feeling was of total peace. After another long year of business and managing issues, this holiday was the perfect antidote for me.
Peaceful Easy Feeling along Lake Garda
We walked back to P d G and had lunch of salmon avocado sandwich, cheese sandwich and a couple of energy fruit drinks.
We had dinner at the nice Plumes restaurant back in town
> Pork cheek with young potatoes and artichokes,
> Burrata cheese / Parma Ham / Pistachio Salad.
I recorded we did easily 20,000 steps today and went back to bed totally tired and happy.
