A juxtaposition of old and new ; the former Chattel House Ya Tong now a restaurant, and in the background, the ulta-modern Build To Order Housing Development Flats, the Pinnacle at Duxton
This is a place I have recently visited, even though I am a born and bred Singaporean, Keong Saik Road. Flanked on one side by Neil Road, and the other by New Bridge Road, it is now a 'happening' place for the artsy and foodies. I recently 'discovered' the place after I went to Bukit Pasoh to lend my support to my karate instructutor who is also a talented artist (water-colours). Mr. Chia Kwek Fah recently had an exhibition of his water-colour works at the Grassroots Book Club during the month of May this year. So I went there recently to view and also bought a piece.
After those visits, first to view and secondly to collect the art piece, my interest was piqued that only now, in my 50s, there are many places of interest in my home city, which I have never stepped foot on. The reason was probably due to personal safety and the area around Keong Saik road was linked with unsavoury news and dubious people in the past.
You see, Chinatown and Keong Saik road in particular was a hotbed of gangster related activity, as well as vice. There were prostitutes plying the streets in the 60s and till the late 70s and the place was darkly lit, controlled by gangs and run down. Fast forward 25 years later to the early 2000s and the place has reinvented itself. The myriad of shophouses and death chattels (places where the old people were placed to live out their last days, even sometimes morgues) have all gone. No more gangsters and street lights abound every 10 meters or so.
In its place are the facade of the buildings which echo still of names of the past, they are mainly Clan Associations, boutique hotels, food establishments, architects, shipping firms, legal firms and of course up market artisan coffee shops.
Tourists and locals alike live around Chinatown area, and there are 5 star service apartments along New Bridge Road, just around the corner. There is a major Mass Rapid Transport Station or underground (Outram) about 100 meters away from Keong Saik road.
The 1929 Hotel along Keong Saik Road
True, the place is no longer the 'exotic' and 'exciting' like some tourists or even expatriates complain. However, these folk are exercising shallow and wishful thinking. Better to have the facade of the old buildings with world class food standards (1 Michelin starred Chef Chan Soya Sauce Chicken Rice is at the neighbouring Smith Street) than to have the 'exotic' and 'exciting' (read dangerous) experience.
Koeng Saik Street (and vicinty I must add) has been ranked in the top 10 of Lonely Planets World Guide for 2017 as a Must See.
So the Must See, Eat and Do places (in my opinion) are :
- Frog Porridge (at Tong Shian stall) at New Bridge Road entrance to Keong Saik
- Read some books at GrassRoots Book Club along Bukit Pasoh Road
- Have a coffee or aperitif at the numerous Bookshops cum Bistros
- Nicholas (French Restaurant) at 10 Teck Lim Road.
- Soya Sauce Chicken Noodle or Rice at Smith Street (1 Michelin Star)
- Photoshoots of old buildings with new facades (chattel houses like Ya Tong)
- Indian temple at the end of the Keong Saik road and Telok Ayer Road
To get there, take the MRT to Outram station and then follow the signs up to New Bridge Road.
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